Balaban's: Cucumber Bisque

Balaban's classic chilled cucumber bisque was made by cook Selina Ford starting in 1974. Selina perfected making very large quantities of the recipe. But the recipe itself was not Selina's.

According to Adalaide Balaban, Herb Balaban's wife, she obtained the original recipe for the cucumber bisque served at Balaban's from the 1968 Time-Life Book Collection of American Cooking. The recipe was for 4 servings, so it was adapted for multiple servings. She served it chilled and with sour cream. Over the years, the recipe was changed many times to reflect the equipment available and the persons behind the stove, as well as the response of the customers.

Adalaide and Herb Balaban Stir in chopped onions and cucumbers

Below are two versions of Balaban's cucumber bisque, the 1986 Time-Life recipe and the recipe credited by Aaron Teitelbaum of Herbie's Vintage 72 as the "original" used by Adalaide Balaban and Selina Ford.


Cucumber Bisque

Source: 1968 Time-Life Book Collection of American Cooking

Yield: 4 servings


Ingredients

  • 6 Tbsp butter

  • 2 median onions, finely chopped (1 cup)

  • 2 large cucumbers, peeled and finely chopped (2 cups)

  • 3 cups chicken stock, fresh or canned

  • 2 Tbsp flour

  • 2 egg yolks

  • 1/2 cup heavy cream

  • 1 medium-sized cucumber, peeled and diced into 1/4-inch pieces

  • Salt

  • White pepper

  • 2 Tbsp finely chopped fresh parsley of chives


Preparation

In a heavy 2- to 3-quart saucepan, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter over moderate heat. When the foam subsides, stir in the chopped onions and the chopped cucumbers and, stirring occasionally, cook them for about 5 minutes until the onions are transparent but not brown.

Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender. Pour the soup into a sieve set over a large bowl and force the vegetables through with the back of a wooden spoon.

Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in the saucepan. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the flour. Pour in the puréed soup, beating vigorously with a wire whisk. Return to moderate heat and cook about 3 to 5 minutes, whisking constantly, until the soup has thickened slightly.

In a small bowl, combine the egg yolks and heavy cream. Beating constantly with a whisk, pour into it 1 cup of the hot soup, 2 tablespoons at a time. Then reverse the process. Slowly pour the warmed mixture back into the remaining soup, still beating with the whisk. Simmer over very low heat for 5 minutes but do not let the soup come to a boil. Just before serving, stir in the diced raw cucumber, season with salt and white pepper, and sprinkle with chopped parsley or chives.

To serve the soup cold. let it cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate for at least 3 hours. Add the diced raw cucumbers, seasonings and chopped herbs just before serving. If you like, you many serve cold soup with a spoonful of slightly salted, whipped cream in each portion, or a spoonful of sour cream may be used.



Cucumber Bisque

"Adalaide Balaban and Selina Ford’s Original Recipe"

Source: Aaron Teitelbaum, Sauce Magazine, July 1. 2009

Yield: About 2 quarts


Ingredients

  • 1/4 lb chicken fat (may substitute 1 stick butter)

  • 2 cups flour

  • 1 1/2 tsp white pepper, plus more for seasoning

  • 2 1/2 qt chicken stock

  • 7 1/2 lb cucumbers, peeled

  • 1 stick unsalted butter

  • 13 yellow onions, diced

  • 1/2 cup granulated sugar

  • 3 bunches parsley, chopped

  • 1 cup lemon juice

  • Salt to taste

  • 1/2 cup sour cream


Preparation

Make a roux: In a large stock pot, melt the chicken fat. Whisk in the flour and white pepper and cook until it is blond. Whisk in the chicken stock and simmer for 30 minutes.

Chop the cucumbers into fine pieces using a food processor.

In a large pot with a lid, melt the butter over low heat. Add the onions and cover. Sweat the onions until soft and translucent, stirring occasionally. Add the cucumbers and sugar. Simmer for 1 hour.

Cool both mixes, then combine them.

Blend the parsley and lemon juice and add to the cucumber-roux mix.

Purée the soup in a food processor.

Season to taste with salt and white pepper.

Just before serving, stir in the sour cream.


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